Showing posts with label Melissa Clark. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Melissa Clark. Show all posts

Monday, June 6, 2011

melissa clark and her artichokes

 Yesterday I had a surprise visit from my friend Hedley.
Since the last time I saw her, she has traveled through India and moved to Pittsburgh, and although I have regularly mourned the loss of Hedley and her sweetheart Zoe from our daily lives, I didn't  recognize it fully until she appeared and I felt a full breath of air in my lungs.  She is all sparkle in the best of ways.

And of course she appeared, and I had these few open surprise hours, and so we walked to town and back and then we sat on the bench that is almost back up to my house before you reach the crest of the hill--it's right where you need a rest. It belongs to a neighbor I have never met who flies a very big American flag over their driveway, but they have been kind enough to put a bench right there on the side of the road where it is so obviously for those just about to make it to the top of the hill, and on the  occasions that I use it, I say a quiet thanks to those neighbors.

We sat and talked about her life and my life and the food that we have eaten since we last saw each other. And I left the conversation standing up straighter, sad to see her drive away, and so grateful for those surprise hours.

I've mentioned Hedley before here- she is so many things, but among them a cook and a baker.  She patiently taught me how to make real buttercream and aioli and how to chop an onion. And yesterday when she asked me how it was all going, and started with the short answer (well!), but then she looked a little harder at me, and I had to admit that I've been batting around a few words in my head lately, and when I opened my mouth, there they were.

I'm afraid that I don't actually know how to cook.

She started this smile that began small and turned into a laugh. And then she said, "okay, well, I can tell you that in the at least hundred times you've fed me over the course of our friendship, I've never thought, wow, this girl cannot cook."

(sigh of relief)

It's not just cooking. I've been having one of those times when I'm stepping in my own way a lot, when I waste time worrying about a thing instead of actually doing it. Maybe you know what I mean?

And yes, yes, I know that I know how to cook. I can make puff pastry and strawberry jam and beef stew. I can figure out a sauce for most things, and only half the time I'll curdle it in some way.  But sometimes the great expanse of what I don't know feels more like a weight than a challenge.  And I forget that last year I knew less, and the year before that, even less. I forget to remember what I always say, that life is long, that I love that there is so much to learn!

A real friend will pull you out of the way of yourself.
Hedley said something so delicious just then, I feel like I need to pass it to you.  She said, "Hold on! Stop it with all of this!" She repeated something that she has said before, that cooking is not rocket science or a innate skill that either you have or you don't. Cooking is about skills. Every skill can be learned. And one skill at a time, we learn how to cook. The rest of the time, we fake it, and that works too.

I feel the old and wonderful familiar phrases coming back in a way that I actually believe them.Life is long! I love that there is so much to learn!



Before last week, I had never trimmed an artichoke.


I had eaten hundreds, even grown a few. But when I was instructed to trim, I scoffed.  I can handle the prickly thorns--why break out the scissors? For my whole life, I've steamed and eaten untrimmed artichokes, and it's always gone well for me.
Besides, I didn't know how.

 
 But oh, Melissa Clark! You, with your personable down to earth "I've written so many cookbooks but I'm just here in my kitchen, piecing it together like you, so let's make some delicious Brooklyn-y food together" tone! I cannot help but say Yes to you. And with so much kindness, you share your skills. Thank you for being such a friend through your pages.

Do you know how to trim an artichoke? If so, make this.  But if not? Watch Melissa first, she'll show you.  And then, make this.


And what is fregola? I don't actually know. And because I'm feeling nostalgic for the time before google when I could actually have an unanswered question, I'm going to wait until the answer comes to me. But Israeli couscous was excellent here, and life is long! There is plenty of time to learn about fregola.  (I love that there is so much to learn!)

Friday, November 19, 2010

buttery polenta with parmesan and olive oil-fried eggs

I haven't been cooking.  
Well, I've been boiling pasta a lot, if you count that.  It's been rice pasta because Sadie's all off wheat again.  Rice pasta is good, but just a little bit less good than wheat pasta.  I've been making dinner in a few minutes because that's how the days have been lately.  I have made no plans.  I have not defrosted the meat.  6:00 will often find me standing at the shelf in the corner of the kitchen looking at a can of sardines and a jar of tense raisins, trying to figure out what to cook for this hungry and grumpy family. It would be omelets, but Sadie's off eggs too, and she asks so sweetly that she not have to eat something else for dinner than the rest of us so usually it's pasta.  With stuff.  Olives and parmesan.  Frozen swiss chard that inspires Rosie to reject the whole dish. Honestly, the whole thing happens so fast that I barely taste a thing.

It's okay.  I'm getting my kicks out at breakfast.  
Joey and the girls tumble out of here in a wave of backpacks and lunchboxes by seven.  The cat runs outside, I gather him up, and then it's just me, the green bathrobe, and the last few sips of my coffee.  
I love me, my green bathrobe, and the last few sips of coffee.  
Dishes washed, bags of goldfish and odd seaweed snacks swept back into the pantry, and this is the time before the day begins.  Sometimes it is quiet enough that I can actually close my eyes and imagine what I want to eat for breakfast.  Often  it is a perfect croissant and I am out of luck.  In most other cases, though, I can bring it to fruition.

I just got my copy of Melissa Clark's new book from the library, and we had breakfast together this morning, me and the book.  I can tell that this one is going to pass the "if I get it out of the library 3 times, then I'll buy it" test.  The recipes?  Yes.  But the headnotes?  They wander around her life and her refrigerator until you just want to give a little nudge, and say, "what were we talking about again?" Then she says, "Oh yeah!" and she gives you her recipe for coconut fish stew with basil and lemongrass.
I really love that.
Because there are four bazillion cookbooks.  Because there is a recipe for anything you could ever want.  Because there is google, and epicurious, and a reliable Martha Stewart book on every single thing.  
But a conversation is a unique experience.  And there's only one of those.
Melissa Clark's book is filled with all sorts of lovely recipes--I'm going to cook my way through this one.  But she also shows us how she cooks; she takes the day and her mood and her leftovers and her cravings and what's in her fridge  and she makes something of the whole lovely mess.  This is a book that you could stand in front of at 6:00 searching for something to make for dinner, and while you might not have all of the ingredients for the recipe that you open up to, you will have Melissa Clark cheering you on.  She's aiding the narrative in your hungry head.  You don't have basil?  No problem.  Isn't there some parsley in the fridge--use that instead.  And if you don't really want the bacon tonight, that's fine, but add a little paprika so that you still have the smokey flavor.  She's hopeful that you'll figure out what to make for dinner, and there's nothing like a hopeful friend to get you going.
So breakfast this morning was buttery polenta with parmesan and olive oil-fried eggs.  This is as good of a dinner as it is a breakfast, and you could, as she suggests add some garlicky sauteed green for a true thrill.  I made use of what I had and what I wanted, and so for me, it was a bit of sausage on the side.  

Buttery Polenta with Parmesan and Olive-Oil Fried Eggs
(I made this just for me, but I'll give you her recipe for four servings, just because it would be a lovely dish to share.  But quarter it at your own pleasure)

4 1/2 cups water or broth
1 1/2 cups polenta or grits
3/4 teaspoon salt
2-4 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more, to taste
1/4 cup grated parmesan
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 eggs
coarse sea salt

Bring the water or broth to a low boil.  Whisk in the polenta and continue to whisk until entirely combined.  Switch over to a wooden spoon, lower the heat, and stir frequently until thickened, about 15 minutes.  Stir in the butter, salt and pepper, remove from heat, and cover. 
Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large skillet over medium high heat.  Fry four of the eggs until the white is cooked but the yolk is runny.  Transfer to a plate and repeat with the rest of the oil and the other four eggs. 
Divide the polenta into four bowls and fold the parmesan into each of them.  Top each with two eggs, and garnish with salt and pepper.