kohlrabi fries

I sort of wish I could have fries every day.
Joey mourns my infrequent cooking of potatoes... "more potatoes!" he cries.
Yeah, I don't feel so bad for him. He eats pretty well for a guy who was raised on taco bell with a side of pizza. When we met, I cooked a lot of tofu, and now I don't. Now I have a half a pig and a whole lamb in my freezer. I'm open to input, especially when it keeps the marriage smooth (er).

But fries might be one of my favorite things- good fries- fancy or cheap as long as they are hot and not rubbery in any way. And really, I don't cook so many potatoes because...well, really, what ever it is, I just think about how it should have been fries.

Are you with me on this one?


So the other day, I'm staring this beautiful bunch of kohlrabi in the face, or, in the weird UFO-like purple tendons, and I start thinking that you might be looking for something to do with your big beautiful bunch of kohlrabi. Yeah?

There are a lot of possibilities here--this is a vegetable that will treat you well. Eat the greens like collards, and peel the pretty outer layer off of the bulb. Peel it all off, and even a little bit of the flesh to make sure that you've got ever last bit of the tough skin. From there, you can go raw, you can shred it in a slaw, you can put it into a soup, mix it with mint and puree it- I mean it- this one is happy with all your variations. It has an apple like taste, but more savory and mild.

All that said, I had fries on the brain. And although I'd never heard of kohlrabi fries, I thought it had a pretty good ring to it.

Potatoes, shmatatoes. I have found a new love.


Kohlrabi Fries

1 bunch (about 4 bulbs) kohlrabi, purple or green
olive oil
salt

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Separate the kohlrabi bulbs from the greens, and save for cooking later. Peel thoroughly, until you have a white orb of kohlrabi. Slice into rough fry-like slices. Toss with a glug or two of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Spread onto an oiled baking sheet and bake for about 40 minutes, or until brown and tender. Serve hot, with a bit more salt to taste.

monterey chevre

Going somewhere new can be a little scary. It's like walking into the first day of kindergarten, and you're not quite sure where you're supposed to hang your sweatshirt or what shelf you are supposed to put your lunch on. You think you remember where the bathroom is, but you're not entirely sure and so you hold it all morning.

I know how it is. Even after you find out that you can get your favorite goat cheese for so much less money and with so much more pleasure if you just stop by the farm, it's just hard to make the first visit alone. What if you walk in the wrong door? What if you go at the wrong time? What if you just don't know the secret handshake?

So let's do it together.

This is Rawson Brook Farm in Monterey, MA. They make only one product, that is, really fantastic goat cheese.

They are tucked in right off New Marlborough Road, which is the right hand turn just a bit after the Monterey library, which is never open except on Saturday nights and a few other odd hours. The road is paved, and then it is not, and it goes over a little bridge and veers to the left and then you are there. Park in the first little parking area. Do not drive up to the cheese shed, because it pisses off the goats.

You may say hello to the goats, and they will very likely be happy to see you, although fairly laid back and non-committal about it, as goats tend to be.

Follow the road up towards the little cheese shed. On your right you will see lots and lots of chives and garlic and thyme. Think about which of those you are most excited about, because you are about to be forced into a decision. That is, unless you have been wise enough to bring enough money for two containers of cheese.

This is the shed. The second door is yours to open. You will know that you are in the right place by the shiny refrigerator.

Open it up.

And it is time to decide. This is a very personal decision, but if you are the type who likes a little input, I'll tell you that I never buy the plain. I like herbs with my cheese. I always buy the big container, because it is a better deal and the little one will be gone before the day is out. And as for whether I go for the olive oil and thyme or the garlic and chive...

it really depends on the day. You're good either way, I promise.

Don't forget to pay for your cheese. Leave money in the basket.

And you are on your way.

Now you have done it and you know just where to go. After a visit or two, the newness will have faded, and you will know the goats' names. Hell, the goats will know your name. You might even have a secret handshake.

But even better, you will have cheese.

pasta with greens and prosciutto

My own unwillingness to do the things that I know that I should and want to do continues to amaze me.
Every day, I feel like I have to start again. I walk through the work and interactions of my day, and, for the zillionth time, I gently remind myself of those aspects that someday, maybe possibly will become habit.

Think before you speak, honey. Weigh the meaning in your words. Make every interaction meaningful. Remember that everyone is going through their own stuff today. Have compassion, and even empathy. Don't talk too much when you get nervous. And don't be so hard on yourself either. We're all going through it.

When everyone is complaining in the kitchen at 5:00, give them all kisses, especially the husband.

When the girls ask to be read to, say yes. Time is not there, it is created by you when you decide it is needed. Don't worry about the mess in the living room. Take a walk. Then, lie down on the floor for a few minutes.

Tell people how much you like them. Don't use the word "but" in the middle of a sentence. Stand up straight. Don't speed. Be on time because you made enough time to get there. Don't even touch your cell phone when you are driving.

Eat greens for breakfast. You don't need coffee at 1 in the afternoon. Plan meals. Take meat out of the freezer two days ahead of time so that you don't have to soak it in water. Make pie for dessert.

There is time to make real food. Roll out pasta, regularly. It's better than the boxed stuff, and a lot more fun.


I guess if there wasn't so much work to do, life wouldn't be so exciting, right? As hard as I work, I seem to be heading more and more towards utter imperfection. Let's call it something else. Let's call it rustic! That sounds a little better, I think.

You wouldn't know it to look at those hard little "noodles" in the box, but pasta making in itself is a messy and imperfect process. Pasta making is the finger painting of cooking.

Chasing an egg around the counter with a bench knife--now that is a mess. As long at it doesn't hit the floor, you're golden. And as you cut the egg into the flour, the miraculous incorporation will soothe and amaze. But the kneading of the hard and impermeable dough? All your strength will be needed to soften that one. As you toss that dough against your counter, be rough on the dough but not yourself. Pasta dough is never perfect. Don't even try.

So, flour in my hair and dough encrusted in my wedding band, I roll the pasta through my pasta roller. Every sheet is a different length, and I hang them all over the kitchen, wherever I can find a perch for them.

My friend Eilen bought me this shiny little pasta roller for my birthday a few years back. Here and there in the midst of her travels, we have had the opportunity to make pasta together. She really is the one who taught be about the joy of a messy moment in the kitchen in the first place, and I like working this machine with her. She is one of those people who plans a dinner party with 17 different courses that she picked out of the latest Bon Appetit, and then she starts cooking at 4, and just laughs when she looks at the clock. By the end, it's 10:00, and it's just soup and homemade rolls and some little fancy thing to start--everything else has been abandoned over the course of the afternoon. Eilen stays calm and full of laughter and she's my hero for that.

The mess always turns into something that tastes good.

So, I keep reminding myself to laugh when I look at the clock, and to discard the menu items that just aren't happening. If at the end of all this, I've got soup and homemade rolls, that's enough.

Pasta with Greens and Prosciutto

For the pasta:
1 3/4 cup (9 oz) all purpose flour
scant cup (5 oz) semolina flour
pinch of salt
4 medium eggs

For the topping:
4-5 tablespoons olive oil
4 cups thinly sliced onions
1 cup dry white wine
1 pound kale or swiss chard, cleaned, de-stemmed and thinly sliced
4 oz. prosciutto, in 1-inch strips
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
salt and pepper, to taste
parmesan cheese

Make the pasta dough: Mix the flours and salt and make a well directly on the counter. Pour the eggs into the well, two at a time. With a bench knife, incorporate the egg into the flour. When you have a loose dough, knead firmly for 10 minutes, or until the dough becomes smooth. It might seem like this won't happen, but stick with it- you'll get there. With the bench knife, cut the dough into 6 or 7 balls. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and allow to rest for 30 minutes.

In a large sautee pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onions and cook on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until caramelized, about 30 minutes. Remove the onions from the pan and add the white wine. Bring to a boil and scrape any lovely brown bits off the surface of the pan. Let boil for about 3 minutes, then pour liquid over the onions.

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Set up your pasta roller and make your pasta. Add the greens to the water and boil for about 4 minutes- then remove with a slotted spoon, squeeze out excess water, and add the greens to the onions. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook for 2-3 minutes or until just cooked. Drain and rinse. Toss the pasta with remaining olive oil in a large bowl. Add the greens and onions and a bit of salt and pepper to taste. Top with prosciutto, shavings of parmesan, the red pepper flakes, and a final drizzle of olive oil.

radish dip

Dip.
Yuck. I don't do it. I don't throw the contents of my fridge in to my food processor with a random dairy product and serve it with carrots. I avoid those anonymous bowls of creamed elements at parties because double dipping grosses me out. There's always random crumbs of things in there, and I peek in the bowl and slowly back away. I'm not a dip girl.

Except there's something else. Do you have foods in your life that you think that you don't like but that you actually do?

Of course I feel that way about dip. Especially when there is radishes involved.

You know how deeply I am committed to my love for the radish. And after the last six weeks of eating them every day, of gently yanking them out of the garden and of stacking them in luxurious mountains at the farmer's market, I am so not sick of radishes.

But other people seem to be getting there. And so at the market this weekend, instead of relying on the fact that people would eat their radishes naked and immediately (the radishes are naked! Really! Put those dirty thoughts away), we put a nice little bowl of radish dip on the table in the midst of the mountain of radishes, and we gave people bread with which to dip. There was a fat stack of printed radish dip recipes, and I had to swipe one myself before every last copy was taken with excitement and anticipation. Because the truth is... people love a good dip. The thrill of publicly sanctioned finger food, the ubiquitous desire for all substances swirled into cream cheese, sour cream, or (the always healthful and optimistic) yogurt--these perhaps American, perhaps just plain human attributes draw people to that bowl like a fancy mighty strength magnet to an All-Clad stock pot (yes, I'm still fixated on that stock pot) and they are pulled in, little piece of bread or tortilla chip clenched in hand, to dip in.
Go for it. You know you want to.

Radish Dip
adapted from The Farmer's Market Cookbook, the Indian Line Farm's radish table
(and yes, as my picture suggests, this is absolutely the best thing you could put on your bagel)

1 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, drained
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
2-3 bunches red radishes, tops removed, quartered, or about 3 cups
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

Mix all ingredients in the bowl of a food processor. Blend until creamy with some pieces of radish still present in the mix. Taste, and adjust for seasonings. Store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

sadie in the play

Last night, Sadie was Miranda in The Tempest. There were five Mirandas, all equally Miranda-like and filled with wonder.

Sadie's got a thing for Shakespeare, and since she was little she has loved to hold my Riverside Shakespeare in her lap. This was the first play that she has gotten to do, really truly, in front of an audience.

She knew her lines weeks ago. She's chanted them around the living room so many times that Rosie knows them too. The night before last, she just couldn't fall asleep. She wasn't nervous--she just couldn't wait.

I was Miranda too, once. It was just a few years before Sadie came to be. Over the last weeks, Sadie has been drilling me on the similarities. What was your costume like? (blue and silky and Indonesian) Did you have to kiss Ferdinand? (Yes, and it didn't go so well) Do you remember this line? (Only because you've been repeating it all day)

Honestly, I have loved this connection over the play. That Riverside Shakespeare is one of the most important books in my life, and I am happy to share it with her. It is so heavy, after all.

Last night, I had a selectboard meeting. It was important, and worthwhile, and we were dealing with issues that will make a difference. I had to be there.

Standing in the back of the classroom while the kids gestured and spoke out and swayed in imaginary storms, I watched the clock. I knew that I would miss the end of the play, but I was hopeful that I would get to see Sadie in her big scene. In the end, I ran out of the school five minutes before her scene, trying not to cry as I hopped into the car, and I sped to my meeting.

I missed her first school play. After staying home with her for years and being there for everything, I missed her 8 lines as Miranda.

I left my camera with Joey and I made him swear to photograph every moment. When I got home, I looked at these pictures, and I heard the lines in my head, and I gave Sadie a really big squeeze. She asked if I had seen any of her scene, and I was honest with her. A flash passed through her face, and I pulled her onto my lap and asked her to tell me about every moment. She was okay. She had had just the night she was dreaming of.

I feel ridiculous thinking about Sadie in therapy in 20 years, but I have to admit that I think of it. "My mom missed my first school play!" she'll say, and the therapist will shake her head in disbelief. "She was always so busy- there was the town, and her writing, and her cooking. She was always shooing me out of the kitchen! No wonder I hate to cook."

The side of myself that creates these conversations is not my best. With my rational side, the one that thinks anxiety and guilt is a waste of time and energy, I know that she will be okay. I know that she is her own little self, and that I do my best to keep her safe, feed her well, and give her a lap to sit on. I know that I am not so powerful that one missed play will make a future wreck of her. After all, there are so many people who love her, and I am just one among them. Last night, Rosie was sitting in the front row, mouthing her lines and cheering her on. Joey was in the back, beaming and photographing every moment. Grandma was there, and Auntie Maia. And there were all of her friends, onstage and off, calming each other's stage fright and high-fiving after each scene. A lot of people were loving her through those eight lines.

But next time, nothing can keep me away.

how to freeze spinach

I'm not going to try to hide this from you. The other day, I ripped out a whole bed of spinach. It was a lot of spinach, and I froze it all, and the whole process from first pick to last sweep in the kitchen took me all of two and a half hours. There were several necessary tasks that I was avoiding at the time, and all the while, I insisted to myself that the world would stand still for my spinach processing- that this was the most important thing I could possibly be doing with my afternoon. Squirreling away greens for my family that I would pull out in the dead of winter? Nothing could trump that one. When I finally emerged with dirt on my face and spinach roots in my hair, I had exactly 3 half-pound bags of spinach to stack in my freezer.

Yup, I'd be shying away from the obvious if I didn't admit that I was a bit looney to engage in the process at all.

Don't get me wrong- you absolutely want to start freezing greens, especially if you have a busting garden or you can't quite keep up with your farm share. In the winter, I assure you that you will take great joy at throwing your own kale-sicle into a pot of soup. We'll talk about the freezing of various greens over the coming weeks, but just so you're not dying of suspense, I'll tell you right now that you can freeze kale, swiss chard, mustard greens, collards- you name it. The method is pretty much the same with every green, but today we're just going to talk about spinach.

Are you ready for it? Would you like to get really dirty, bring a whole lot of crazy bugs into your kitchen, and then work for a couple of hours just so you can create a few satisfying bags of perfect green loveliness?


Me too! I love this stuff.

If your spinach is washed, and in neat bags from you farm share or the market, this whole process will much quicker and cleaner. But if there is anyone out there who, like me, has recently (or are procrastinating, and you need to do it today!) pulled out a bed of spinach that has just started to bolt, we're going to start at the beginning. So here, in just 13 easy steps...

How to Freeze Spinach

If the spinach is still in the ground:

1. Pick it! If it is getting too big and starting to flower, pull the whole plants out.
2. Separate the leaves from the stems. (Note: as my friend Jen reminded me, you don't have to make a big mess. You can shear the leaves off the plants and pull out the roots later, or just let them decompose in the soil) Fill every bowl and pot in your house with the leaves. Compost the stems.
3. Wash the leaves. Fill the bowls with water, and add a drop of white or apple cider vinegar to the water. Swish around, and then drain.
4. Repeat step three. Remove the snails that have sped up the sides of the bowls in panic.
5. If your spinach was especially dirty, repeat again.

If your spinach is already washed by some saintly farmer, start here:

6. Bring a large pot of water to boil.
7. Fill a large bowl (if you have any left that aren't filled with spinach) with ice water. Place nearby to the heating pot on the stove.
8. When the water is boiling, put about 4 large handfuls of clean spinach leaves into the boiling water. Keep them submerged for about 15 seconds.
9. With tongs or a slotted spoon, remove the spinach from the boiling water, and submerge into the ice water. Keep submerged in ice water for 10 seconds.


10. Remove the spinach from the ice water, squeezing out excess water. Put the spinach onto a cutting board.

11. Chop roughly.
12. Choose your portions according to how much spinach you like to use at once. Perhaps you have a favorite recipe that calls for 4 cups? Then fill your bag with four cups. I like to fill my bags with 8 ounces of chopped spinach. Whatever your preference, put your spinach into freezer bags, and label them with the amount that you chose.
13. Shake the contents to make a nice flat bag. It has taken me years to really learn this trick from my friend, Jen, who freezes enough food to feed us all. If you make a flat bag, then the bags will stack up in your freezer.


Satisfying, isn't it? Yes, an entire bed of spinach turned into 3 tiny freezer bags worth. Yes, there are still earwigs in my kitchen. But still- still! You know where I'm coming from right? There are three perfect little blocks of spinach now waiting to nourish my children through the long dark winter. And with a few more afternoons like this one, the stack will grow! In these next months, we'll fill up that unsung hero of home food preservation, the freezer... one slightly looney afternoon at a time.

strawberries with balsamic vinegar and mint

After all this waiting, they're finally here.

Last year there was barely a strawberry season to speak of. Remember the summer of cold and rain? The blight that would never dry out? Although I secretly love a cold summer so that I can keep wearing jeans and drinking hot coffee, I had enough mushy, moldy crops last summer to last me a lifetime (I guess none would be enough moldy, mushy crops, but you know what I mean, right?). Anyway, this summer, I'm ready for the heat. Two strawberry-less summers would be too much for me to bear.

As consolation for last summer, the strawberries around here are coming to their red perfection a full two weeks early. And man oh man are they here.

Strawberries open fruit season in these parts, and with them comes one more moment to try to learn the fleeting nature of all things lovely. I don't know about you, but I'm getting a whole lot of moments for that- I seem to get a fairly regular kick in the butt with some form of that lesson. So, before we start, while we have this moment before kids with stained faces and aching post-berry bellies, before packed freezer bags of peaches and blueberries fill up the freezer shelves, before there is one more trip to the hardware store for canning jars, and before looking out over the mountains of fruit on the counter top at 10 pm that must be dealt with TONIGHT!, let's just talk for a minute about the most important aspect of all this (in my humble opinion), that is, how to enjoy the fruit:

1. Remember that each berry and fruit has a small window of loveliness. Try to think ahead of time about what you might want to have at the end of the summer. Maybe you would like to freeze blueberries and peaches, but make strawberry and raspberry jam. There is a lot of fruit between here and October, and you don't have to put up every single one.

2. If you are new to canning, but would like to try it this summer, do not go it alone, and do not embark on the project when it is 110 degrees. I say this from experience.

3. If you go picking, do your best to only pick as much as you can use. When surrounded by acres of perfect raspberries, it can be hard to stop filling your buckets, but you want to try to avoid crying in your kitchen at midnight because you have more berries than you could possibly deal with before next week. I say this from experience too.

4. Okay, I know that as a Jewish woman partially raised by her depression-era grandmother, I seem to have a fair amount of guilt to contend with on a daily basis. I hope that you don't, and I am happy for you if that is the case. But if you tend to bring guilt in where it doesn't belong, this one is for you. When something is wonderful and short-lived, like strawberry season, enjoy it! But if life has gotten complicated and work is busy and it rained that Saturday you were planning on going picking, and lo and behold the strawberries are gone and you never made jam, then say "such is life!" and move on to the next one. Guilt has no place here, so throw it out the window.

5. Whether you are picking fruit yourself, or buying local fruit at your farmer's market or store, you know that you are in for some phenomenal snacks in these coming months. So, hooray! Let's make tarts and jam and smoothies and ice cream and pie and muffins and whatever else we can think up.

But first, let's eat strawberries.

If you have just gotten your first quart of strawberries this week, you know what I'm talking about. Gold, pure gold. You don't want to cook these, because them you couldn't taste the sun in them. These first strawberries are to be eaten raw, and they don't even need a thing.

But if you are willing to branch out a bit, to add a touch of this and a touch of that, just to enhance their already perfect perfection, then pull out the vinegar. If you haven't ever tried this, it may seem shocking, but stay with me for a minute here. A sprinkle of sugar and a drizzle of decent balsamic vinegar is magical for strawberries- you do not taste the vinegar- just more of the strawberries. It's like strawberries-plus. I know! You thought they couldn't get any better, but try it! A little bowl of this, and you can clink your forks to the start of fruit season.


Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar and Mint

serves 4-6

1 quart strawberries, hulled and sliced (don't put them in the refrigerator!)
3 tablespoons of sugar, or more depending on your taste
1 teaspoon good quality balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup mint leaves, chopped into fine ribbons

Toss the strawberries with the sugar. Allow to sit for 5-10 minutes. Drizzle the vinegar over the strawberries and add the mint leaves. Stir very gently.